2006 and 2007 Oregon Vintages

2/15/09 - Every once in a while there is a truly bad vintage (with regard to Oregon Pinot noir, many would agree on 1995, some on 2003) or one that stands out as exceptional (again for Oregon Pinot, 1994 was considred stellar by most, and 2008 almost universally by all), but most are simply different than one another. Different, but equal, in my opinion, at least in the opportunity they provide to make great wine. Take the back-to-back example of the 2006 and 2007 vintages as a case in point. The temperatures in 2006 were above average, but not so hot that the fruit could not be managed to create balanced wines. It would have been nice if it had been a bit cooler to get some additional hang time for further flavor development without the additional sugars and loss of acid that accompany the heat. But it did give us well developed, ripe fruit. The resulting wines are lush and forward and extremely appealing for drinking now and over the next few years, and longer in some cases. But, generally speaking the wines, at least those that were not heavily manipulated, are not going to age for a long time -- eventually, the fruit and the tannins will soften to the point they will not stand up to the above average alcohol in these wines,and fall out of balance. But they are quite remarkable wine in their own way, and it is rare that Pinot noir, at least in these northern climes where it shines the brightest, can be so accessible so early. There is much to enjoy here.

The 2007 wines are, on the other hand, the product of a starkly contrasting season that concluded in less than ideal conditions. With sugars still low and acids still far from a suitable range, and most importantly, phenolic development far from achieved, the rains arrived in late September. These conditions presented significant challenges, but with good vineyard management (thank you Results Partners), some courage and fortitude to ride out the rains, and some judicious shepherding and honest handling in the winery to manage issues with low sugars and potential dilution, it all presented the opportunity to make rich, deep, balanced and structured wines in the classic tradition of Burgundy. These wines, with just a little time in the bottle, are beginning to unfold and show their beauty, signaling many years of development during which the wines will become serious powerhouses.

What does it say that one of the top most read wine publications gives the 2007 vintage a 94 score and the other one gives it an 84-87 score? It means that the differences in these vintages, and the opportunities to make beautiful wines that are a unique expressions of a particular time and place, cannot be reduced to a single number on a vintage chart. They ask for and reward those who explore the finer examples of each year. .